Trestle on Tenth: Cozy Neighborhood Eatery
Most New Yorkers might consider searching for the perfect patio akin to torture; some enjoy instant success while others find themselves lost in a vortex of avenues and side streets, dangerously close to starvation before they finally stumble upon a sweet outdoor oasis.
Meanwhile, patios are like babies to the restaurants that have them; theirs is always the prettiest. Trestle on Tenth, the Swiss-influenced American nugget of rustic charm located at 24th and 10th Avenue, is no different. And the restaurant that takes its name from a close proximity to the High Line, isn’t one to lie. But New York’s extreme supply-and-demand dining environment makes it risky business to have “hearty” as a middle name, even if your patio is the most beautiful in town.
Every savvy diner knows that the words “hearty” and “summer” just don’t go together. Ralf Kuettel would disagree. As an alum of Union Square Café, he’s quite comfortable using ingredients that will make your mouth beg for more. But if you’re watching your figure - I mean, staring at it with a magnifying glass - you’re likely to run from this menu like a vampire before garlic. Born and trained in Switzerland, his menu carries strong French and German influence. His courtship with ingredients like butter, sour cream, bacon and cheese suggest some sort of familiar bond; they find their way into his recipes often. And he likes it that way. Don’t expect him to change, either; Kuettel is also the owner.
The small menu, Kuettel says, allows him to focus on small things (notwithstanding big flavor). Assuming you’ve come to bust a grub, the menu is sure to please. If you’ve dived headlong into the train wreck that is your current summer diet, you might find Trestle cuisine a pleasant distraction. Unfortunately, the tight quarters might make the food a bit difficult to swallow - even for one with a summer figure.
Still, the block of assorted Swiss cheeses and meats ($14), including soppressata, with the crepinette of pork shoulder with sautéed spinach ($12) - one of the most celebrated dishes in the restaurant - and the roasted pork loin with butter pecans and black trumpet mushrooms ($22) might give you reason to frequent Trestle, even on a hot summer night.
Arrive ready to drink. With a decent beer selection and strong supporting wine list the experience is bound to be a memorable one. Kuettel’s “free trade mentality” about wine might raise questions as to whether he can take credit for the list all on his own; Kuettel’s wife, Juliette Pope, is the wine director at Gramercy Tavern and most likely his cheat sheet.
Don’t let that fleeting diet deprive you of what might be a really cool neighborhood summer spot. While Trestle on Tenth may not be a destination, it’s a spot worth going to if you’re in the neighborhood.
Oh, and the patio is absolutely delicious.
Read my review on Edge
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