Ah, Italiano! Lunetta: A [food] lover’s paradise
Looking for a great place to eat this weekend? Keep reading.
Lunetta is one of New York’s best kept secrets, it seems; it’s one of those “authentic” spots where you almost need to be a local to truly appreciate what food blogger Andrea Strong (The Strong Buzz) calls “a sort of modern homage to Arthur Avenue,” an often overlooked Italian wonder located in the Bronx. But is this restaurant brave enough to last amidst the scrapers of the Flatiron district? My guess is that by this summer, Lunetta in Manhattan will take off.
Not because of its prime location, however, just steps away from the sliver of a building that gives this district its name, or because of its grand yet warm atmosphere; the floor-to-ceiling windows open up strong art deco queues and red tiles inside pick up the lighting, making for a warm and inviting glow to casual passersby. No, despite all of this, Lunetta’s greatest asset continues to be its food.
The atmosphere may sound a tad intimidating, but the new location is far from pretentious. “I like the idea of having things on the menu you can eat with your fingers,” says Sean Hill, General Manager. And a lighter menu might ease any lingering anxiety. “The focus now is away from the heavy dishes. We’ve introduced a number of summer items, including a seared sea scallop dish.”
It’s only the second day of the spring menu and already server Ron Cucolo has a decent handle on it. A Baruch University finance student, Cucolo started only several weeks ago and says a brand new menu shaves away some of the competition between he and his more senior wait staff. (Challenge the servers with complex combinations of the finest ingredients and they’re sure to be kept on their toes.)
Behind every great menu is a brilliant chef. Originally hailing from New England, Executive Chef Adam Shepard has the right idea: quality dining isn’t necessarily about gorging yourself. And environmentally conscious, Shepard is a smart chef in a good place. Twenty to thirty percent of his ingredients are greenmarket-produced. By promoting regional agriculture since 1976, greenmarket has ensured a continuous and fresh supply of produce for New York businesses while giving small family farms in the area an opportunity to sell their product. For Shepard, using local produce and livestock does more than just ensure the freshest ingredients; it also sustains the local community. One could say his food is made with both love and civic responsibility. But make no mistake. This chef keeps his priorities straight, never compromising taste as a result. “You can say ’biodynamic,’” he begins, “but as a consumer you ask, ’is it delicious?’ first.”
The menu would generally agree. The seared scallops, artichokes & parsley-almond pesto ($26) reigns supreme, boasting the plumpest, cleanest scallops that practically dissolve in your mouth. While the fried artichokes ($12) are shy and a bit too dainty, ultimately escaping the hearty dish you might expect, the creamy polenta ($15) more than makes up for it amidst heavenly layers of bacon, mushrooms and poached egg. The grilled tuna dish with olive-tomato vinaigrette ($23) is seared to perfection, and the herb-ricotta ravioli with walnut pesto ($15) reminds you why you came for Italian in the first place. Halfway through your meal, you get the sense that Shepard knows his way around the kitchen; the neutrality between rich and light, salty and sweet, brings a special narrative to each dish.
This offshoot of the neighborhood Brooklyn spot is great for any occasion, whether it’s a quiet dinner after work or a more special encounter. The restaurant has a fair selection of beer and boasts an intimate wine list you won’t find just anywhere; Lunetta hand picks selections from small Italian producers throughout Italy.
“We’re not trying to be Roman or Sicilian here,” says Shepard with fire in his eyes. “We see things through the eyes of New York City.” Seems Lunetta is strong enough to survive the hustle and bustle of the Flatiron district after all. But is that enough for this ambitious restaurant owner? “There are more Lunettas to be built,” the chef says.
Notes:
Lunetta is located at 920 Broadway, between Broadway and Park.
Dinner begins at 5:00 pm and ends at Midnight Fridays and Saturdays, 10:00 pm Sundays, and 11:00 pm the rest of the week.
Lunetta on Broadway is wheelchair accessible; a ramp leads to the entrance and restrooms are on dining room level.
Prices are moderate; go expecting to spend money, but don’t worry abut burning a hole in your wallet.
See my original review on Edge.
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